Off-topic – Ethnomusicological Field Studies

 

This film was made during our reception ceremony with the chief of the Navotua people at Nacula Island, Republic of Fiji. The video only records the floor of the dark hut, so as to not intimidate the shy vocalists.

The Navotua people live on a small island, and mostly eat what they grow themselves. They are Protestants, although the village is run by a chief – who is also the only one in the village allowed to wear sunglasses. Other particular rules were: not to wear a hat in the village, not to wear a bag over the shoulder, and that women are regarded inferior to men (even by other women) – even if there were women with strong personalities in the village, and you could rather feel the equality, as all duties were split evenly. The women marry into the village: they come from the other (bigger) islands, are more likely to speak English, and to know more about economics. The two little huts, which the Navotua people constructed to rent as a homestay, were actually planned and are run by women. The money is used to re-construct the village school, which was destroyed by the hurricane some years ago, and to organize the complementary water supply, to help through dryer seasons. Every Tuesday from 6 am on all families take turns in praying in the local church for several hours against the hurricane.

The official reception with the chief made us part of the Navotua people for the length of our short stay. It required a gift, which is traditionally a bunch of Kava-roots. The roots are riced down to a kind of powder, and washed/waved in water. The resulting drink is alleged to have a slightly intoxicating effect, which is why Kava is absolutely popular throughout all Fiji. (We didn’t notice a thing; let’s say that even only swallowing this very muddy drink takes a lot, for a foreigner. ) Once it’s prepared, the Kava drink will be served clockwise. Directly before receiving it in a small coconut bowl you are supposed to give a muffled clap. While you are drinking it (all at once) the other will clap three times, and they will nod appreciatively if you managed it.

The ceremony took several hours. Everybody is sitting on the floor with crossed legs, as it is forbidden to stretch your legs towards the holy Kava bowl. We stayed from 8pm until 1 am, and were graciously allowed to leave after giving a, half official, speech of thanks and appreciation.

 

Isa isa vulagi lasa dina
Nomu lako au na rarawa kina
Cava beka koa mai cakava
Nomu laku au na sega ni lasa

Isa isa vulagi lasa dina
Nomu lako au na rarawa kina
Cava beka koa mai cakava
Nomu laku au na sega ni lasa

Isa lei na noqu rarawa
Ni ko san a vodo ena mataka
Bau nanuma na nodatou lasa
Mai navotua nanuma tikoga

 

Isa means longing. It is a song about somebody leaving the village, a farewell song to us, as we were departing the next day. We should never forget the Navotua people, as they will never forget us.